Yay! This weekend finally we were able to start the caprail replacement process. This is kind of a big deal, kinda. Yeah, you know we’ve been working on these caprails since my crazy inspection in March 2013 earlier in the year. They were leaking so we pulled em up, recaulked the hull to deck joint *twice* and finally have put them back down. It was a good day. Somewhat crazy and stressfull, but also good and exciting.

We went through many renditions of the plan from simply sticking the caprails down using sandbag weights with 5200, to the plan that was actualized, using 3M 4000 caulk with a screw every 2 feet or less (never in the hull to deck joint seam).

First action was to remove the teak caprails from the weather and use a heat gun to peel the varnish and caulk off.
Stripping the varnish off of the caprail for caprail replacement

Next I sanded the bottom with a 60 grit mouse sander and washed them with a 3:1 detergent to bleach mixture and a fine brush.
Sanding caprail for caprail replacement
Cleaning teak boards for caprail replacement

It was great to do this in the SUNNY 85 degree weather which is our September, because they dry SO quickly. I laid them in the sun to dry then did an Oxalic Acid treatment to raise the grain and allow the caulk to take greater hold.
Teak drying for caprail replacement

After they dried I left em in the boat several days until we could find a good weather window for the project. Today was the day. I dragged Tate out of bed at 9am with the promise of coffee and ham and cheese biscuits… it worked.

We took the nicely prepared caprails, lined them up correctly to find a few screw holes less than 2 feet apart like I said above, then removed the teak and acetoned the heck out of the bottom of it,
Acetone on teak boards for caprails replacement

Tate used his newly loved <3<3 caulk gun <3<3 from Jamestown Distributors. I'm not joking, he says it's awesome and he loves it, well worth the $31 bucks paid. He used a "zig-zag" pattern on the hull to deck joint itself with caulk around each screw. He felt it was best and would have superior drainage ability. Zig Zag caulk pattern for caprail replacement

It was difficult for me to accept this method when pretty much I’ve heard the method of applying a line of caulk around the outside of the caprail to form a gasket like seal and also applying a bunch of caulk around each screw hole was the best. Our (his) method is pretty much like this except he used a zig-zag pattern and caulk around each screw. We tried to use as few screws as possible and made sure to dryfit the boards and screw out each hole we would use.

The caprails are mostly back on now! It’s a pretty exciting time I must say. We still have to replace the piece that has the genoa track, but that is for another day. We also need to come back and seat teak bungs with epoxy in all of the holes.
Caprail with Dani smiling
Caprail completed

Forward caprails

Starboard caprails

Port side caprails

They look fantastic! I forgot how great they would look, I mean it’s been a while since we removed them last year.

During this whole deal we spoke with a man down the dock from us that we have seen time and time again and he imparted upon us the advice that so many people have told us before: Go while you are younger…when the weight of the world isn’t on your shoulders.

This we plan to do.